Tryfan
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Tryfan is one of the most recognisable summits in Snowdonia. It is a beautiful mountain having a classic pointed shape, with rugged crags, and is the lowest of the Welsh 3,000-foot mountains - the Fourteen peaks.
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Routes of ascent
Tryfan is most often climbed from the north, as it lies close to the A5 road. A common starting point is about 1.5 km east of Idwal Cottage (a youth hostel). From here a route leads up the rocky north ridge of the mountain; a good route for those who enjoy scrambling. The guidebook "Scrambles in Snowdonia" (Steve Ashton, Cicerone Guides) judged this route to be Grade 1, which is at the easier end of the scrambling spectrum. Alternatively the scrambling can be avoided by means of a lower path on the eastern side of the north ridge known as the Heather Terrace.
Tryfan may also be climbed from the south, where it is linked via Bristly Ridge to Glyder Fach. Bristly Ridge also offers good scrambling. Bwlch Tryfan, the saddle between Tryfan and the base of Bristly Ridge, may also be reached by a path leading up from Idwal Cottage to the west, passing through Cwm Bochlwyd. This cwm contains the Llyn Bochlwyd - known as the Australia lake due to its shape resembling that of the country.
About a third of the way up there is a distinctive rock known as "the Cannon" which points 45 degrees upwards and is visible from the ground on the profile of the mountain.
The summit of Tryfan is noted for the rocks of Adam and Eve - a pair of rocks separated by about 1 metre. It is common practice for those climbing Tryfan to step between the two rocks; in doing so one is said to gain the "Freedom of Tryfan". The exposure on one side is quite great and those without a head for heights are advised not to attempt the step.
Milestone Buttress
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Milestone Buttress at the base of Tryfan is popular location for climbing. The Buttress is about 10 minutes walk from roadside laybys. The most popular route is known as the direct route: there are often queues of people waiting for to climb it. It is 75 m long, and graded Very Difficult. The route was first climbed by G. Barlow and H. Priestly-Smith in 1910.
There is also a popular Grade 3 scramble incorporating the Milestone Buttress. This route is commonly used as an alternative approach to the North Ridge, as is the nearby slabby wedge of Tryfan Bach, on the other side of the mountain.
Goats
Tryfan is also known for its population of feral goats, which can often be seen showing walkers and climbers their mountaineering skills.
References
- Williams, Paul (1990). Rock climbing in Snowdonia. Constable
- Ashton, Steve (1992). "Scrambles in Snowdonia". Cicerone Guides
