New Caledonian crested gecko

From Free net encyclopedia

(Redirected from Rhacodactylus ciliatus)

{{Taxobox | color = pink | name = New Caledonian crested gecko | image = Rhacodactylus_ciliatus.jpg | image_size = 240px | image_caption = Crested Gecko, Rhacodactylus ciliatus | regnum = Animalia | phylum = Chordata | classis = Reptilia | ordo = Squamata | subordo = Sauria | familia = Gekkonidae | genus = Rhacodactylus | species = R. ciliatus | binomial = Rhacodactylus ciliatus | binomial_authority = Guichenot, 1866 }}

The New Caledonian crested gecko or eyelash gecko (Rhacodactylus ciliatus), is a type of gecko found only on the southern end of the island of New Caledonia. This species of gecko was thought extinct until it was rediscovered by a team of biologists in 1994. This gecko, along with several other Rhacodactylus species is being considered for protected status by CITES. Crested geckos were first described by Guichenot in 1866 and is sometimes also referred to as Guichenot's giant gecko.

The common name of R. ciliatus refers to eyelash-like projections found above the eyes in this gecko. This gecko has a wedge shaped head with a crest that runs from each eye to the tail. It has "sticky" pad toes that allow it to cling to very slick surfaces like glass. It also has one of these pads on the tip of its tail. The sticking function is made possible by millions of tiny hairs called setae. On top of each hair is a flat pad called a spatulae. Scientists believe these structures create a weak electromagnetic field, somewhat like static cling, which helps the gecko stick to all kinds of surfaces.

It also has no eyelids, relying instead on its tongue to keep its eyes moist and debris free. Like all Rhacodactylus geckos, R. ciliatus has webbing on the legs and long digits. Crested geckos are an arboreal species, preferring to make their home in the canopy of the New Caledonian rain forests. This is a nocturnal gecko.

R. ciliatus, unlike R. auriculatus will not regrow its tail if it is lost. The cells around the base of the tail are brittle allowing for the tail to break away easily when threatened or caught by a predator. The capillaries to the tail will close almost instantly so there is little to no blood loss. Their tails will move independent of the body for 2-5 minutes. The loss of their tail is not problematic to them as almost 100% of wild adults do not have their tails. An interesting fact about their tails is that they are prehensile which means that they can use it to climb or hang the way a monkey would.

Crested Geckos usually can be found on small trees and low shrubs. They are semi-arboreal and usually sleep during the day in their hiding places near the ground. This species is an omnivore (eats both meat and plants). This gecko will usually eat its shedding skin within minutes, making it rare to see one going into shedding.

Image:Crested gecko.JPG

Color Morphs

The crested gecko has many naturally occurring color groups, some of which include: gray, brown (including buckskin, chocolate, and olive), red (including salmon, and rust), orange (including peach) and yellow (including cream and sulfur). They can be any color but blue. Aside from the highly variable colors, they also have a variety of markings which include: dalmatian spotted (peppered), flame, harlequin, pinstripe, bicolor, brindle, and tiger. It can be hard to tell flame and harlequin apart, so the running definition is that a harlequin has markings the same colour as the dorsal flame on its legs and sides. If it does not have these, it is a flame.

The markings and coloration are not geographic indicators and young geckos from the same clutch may display differing coloration and markings. Breeders have likened this gecko to koi due to the high potential for creating "designer" lines. These colours will also be brighter and more prominent at night rather than during the day.

The species of R. Ciliatus also have distinct structural morphs in head size and crest abundancy. Crested geckos with a head length less than 1.3 times its width are considered "crowned" crested geckos. Crested geckos can vary in the amount and size of the crests, some have crests that extend to the base of the tail and some lack crests on one side of their body.


Captive Care

Image:IMG 7638-3s.jpg Though the export of wild crested geckos is strictly prohibited, before these bans were put in place biologists exported several specimens for breeding and study. From these few specimens, many different breeding lines were established both in Europe and the United States. The crested gecko is now one of the most widely kept and bred species of gecko in the herpetoculture world. These geckos are an excellent choice for someone who wants a pet lizards but has quams about keeping wild-caught animals.

Generally speaking, crested geckos have certain advantages over other lizard species when it comes to captive care. They don't require the keeper to purchase UV lights. Cresteds don't require high heat; heating can easily be provided with standard department store light bulbs. These geckos are easy to handle and they are not picky eaters. As youngsters, they are one of the few lizard species that can actually be kept in plastic terrariums. And unlike most other small lizards in the pet trade, cresteds are captive-bred in large numbers.

In captivity, this gecko will eat a variety of live insects including crickets and mealworms. They also readily accept fruit mashes or fruit based baby foods. These geckos recognize standing water and will drink from a dish. It is recommended that misting of the cage occur at least once a day to keep humidity levels up.

Male geckos should be housed separately or as a part of a breeding pair or trio with females. Males housed together will often fight. Females are social and can be housed together, and although the occasional fight may occur it is usually superficial. An adult pair or trio should be kept in a terrarium no smaller than a commercially available 20 gallon "high" tank. The crested gecko thrives at "room temperature". It is generally recommended that temperatures not go above 82 degrees Fahrenheit or below 72 degrees Fahrenheit. One of the most common mistakes first-time keepers of crested geckos make is keeping the geckos at too low a temperature. Although these geckos are adapated to function in a temperature gradient below what most other lizards prefer for optimum body function, cresteds can not be kept at a mere 60-70 degrees all the time (temporary exposure to low temperatures may be useful to condition adult geckos for breeding). If kept too cool for too long, the geckos can't digest food or be very active. Similarly, high temperatures (above mid-80s) can be stressful for the geckos. Temperature extremes are especially dangerous to young cresteds.

R. ciliatus can be set up in a naturalistic vivarium. A base of organic potting soil and coconut fiber is appropriate and can support live tropical plants. Lots of plants and bits of driftwood will create a more natural environment, which may increase successful breeding. Keeping R. ciliatus without a good number of hiding places will stress the lizard.

These geckos can be very long lived. While they have not been kept in captivity long enough for a definitive age they are thought to live for up to 20-25 years.

Crested geckos love to jump. So they need to be kept close to the ground until they get used to being handled and lost their desire to flight.

Rough or excessive handling only stresses your gecko and should be avoided to keep your pet gecko happy and to ensure a long life.

Breeding

Image:Crested mating.jpg Only adult crested geckos should be bred. At about 35 grams, or a year to a year and a half a crested gecko can be considered an adult. If a year old crested gecko weighs 25 grams, it is not big enough to breed. You can tell males and females apart by looking at the base of their tail. Only males will have a large bulge. This large bulge is their hemipeni. It is next to impossible to sex a juvenile gecko until it's about 20 grams, unless it already has a bulge.

Crested geckos breed readily, with the female laying two eggs which hatch 60-90 days after they are laid. Eggs are generally laid at four week intervals as long as the fat and calcium reserves of the female are still at healthy levels. Crested geckos have a small sac for calcium in their mouth. If an egg laying female is not supplemented with enough calcium her sac will be depleted and she can "crash". Geckos that have crashed take a long time to recover and be healthy enough to breed again. Vitamin D3 should also be supplemented once a week to once every two weeks. Because crested geckos are nocturnal they do not get the light spectrum other lizards use to produce vitamin D3. Without this vitamin reptiles cannot metabolize calcium.

Most breeders suggest that male geckos be removed from the females after a three to six month breeding season to allow the females time to recover and recuperate. Simply removing the male is sometimes not enough to cease egg production. Some females have been known to produce viable eggs for up to four months after the male has been removed. This is why some breeders find it beneficial to reduce the number of daylight hours and slightly reduce the cage temperature (known as "wintering" your geckos).

Crested gecko eggs do not require any incubating. These eggs can be placed in a Tupperware container with damp vermiculite and set on a shelf until they hatch. In fact babies tend to be bigger and healthier if they are not incubated. The theory behind this is that the embryo has more time to absorb the yolk and develop. There is controversy over whether heat plays a role in determining the sex of the embryo, but it would appear there is no correlation. Newly hatched crested geckos will generally not eat until after they shed their skin for the first time. Instead, they use the remains of their yolk sack for nutrition. They should be misted regularly and provided with food daily.

Image:Crested new born.jpg Image:Crested babies.jpgde:Kronengecko fr:Rhacodactylus ciliatus nl:Wimpergekko