Odessa

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Template:Alternateuses {{Infobox Ukrainian City | name = Odessa | coa = Odesa emblem.gif | motto = | map = Odesa-Ukraine-Map.png | oblast = Odessa Oblast | mayor = Edward Yossyfovych Gurwiz | area = 163 | pop = 1,012,500 | year = 2004 | density = 6,198 | founded = 1794 | N1 = 46 | N2 = 28 | E1 = 30 | E2 = 44 | code = 48 | plate = | sisters = Chişinău, Regensburg | url = http://www.city.odessa.ua/ }} Odessa (Ukrainian: Одеса, Odesa; Template:Lang-ru) is a city in southwestern Ukraine, a major port on the Black Sea, and the administrative centre of the country's Odessa Oblast. The city's population in 2004 was 1,012,500.

1 Overview
2 History
3 Geography and features
4 Culture
5 Selected English Bibliography
6 External links

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Overview

From 1819–1858 Odessa was a free port (porto franco). During the Soviet period it was the most important port of trade in the U.S.S.R. and a Soviet naval base. On January 1, 2000 the Quarantine Pier of Odessa trade sea port was declared a free port and free economic zone for a term of 25 years.

Odessa is a warm water port, but of limited military value. Turkey's control of the Dardanelles and Bosphorus has enabled NATO to control water traffic between Odessa and the Mediterranean Sea. The city of Odessa hosts two important ports: Odessa itself and Yuzhny (also an internationally important oil terminal), situated in the city's suburbs. Another important port, Illichivs'k (or Ilyichyovsk), is located in the same oblast, to the south-west of Odessa. Together they represent a major transportation junction integrated with railways. Odessa's oil- and chemical-processing facilities are connected to Russia's and EU's respective networks by strategic pipelines.

Image:Odessa downtown.jpg

Odessa is the fifth-largest city in Ukraine and its most important trading city. In the 19th century it was the third city of Imperial Russia, after Moscow and St. Petersburg. Its historical architecture has a flavor more Mediterranean than Russian, having been heavily influenced by French and Italian styles. Odessa has always possessed a spirit of freedom and ironic humour, probably by virtue of its location and its willingness to accept and tolerate people of many different backgrounds.

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History

Image:Potemkinstairs.jpg

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From Foundation to the End of 19th Century

In the AD 15th century, nomadic Tatars under the suzerainty of the Khanate of Crimea inhabited what is now the Odessa region. During the reign of Khan Haci Giray, the Khanate was endangered by the Golden Horde and the Ottoman Turks and, in search of allies, the khan agreed to cede the area to the Grand Duchy of Lithuania.

Odessa was then a town known as Khadjibey (also Khadjibei, Khadzhibei, or Gadzhibei; Lithuanian: Chadžibėjus; Turkish: Hacibey) and was part of the Dykra region. However, the area was only sparsely populated with Turkic Tatars and consisted mostly of unpopulated steppes.

Khadjibey came under direct control of the Ottoman Empire after 1529 and was part of a region known as Yedisan and was administered in the Ottoman Silistra (Özi) Province. In the mid-18th century, the Ottomans rebuilt a fortress at Khadjibey, which was named Eni-Dunia (Turkish: Yeni Dünya, literally "new world").

During the Russo-Turkish War of 1787–1792, on 25 September 1789, a detachment of Russian forces under Ivan Gudovich took Khadjibey and Eni-Dunia for the Russian Empire. One part of the troops was under command of a Spaniard in Russian service, Major General José de Ribas (known in Russia as Osip Mikhailovich Deribas) and the main street in Odessa today, Deribasovskaya street, is named after him. Russia formally gained possession of the area as a result of the Treaty of Jassy (Iaşi) in 1792 and it became a part of the so-called Novorossiya ("New Russia").

A city was officially founded in 1794 as a Russian naval fortress and Khadjibey was renamed Odessa by January 1795 (when its new name was first mentioned in official correspondence). Neither origin of the new name nor reasons for renaming are known, though etymologies and anecdotes abound. According to one of the stories, when someone suggested Odessos as a name for the new Russian port, Catherine II said that all names in the South of the Empire were already 'masculine,' and didn't want yet another one, so she decided to change it to more 'feminine' Odessa. This anecdote is highly dubious, because there were at least two cities (Eupatoria and Theodosia) with feminine-sounding for a Russian ear names; besides, the Czarina was not a native Russian speaker, and finally, all cities are feminine in Greek (as well as in Latin). Another legend derives the name 'Odessa' from the word-play: in French (which was then the language spoken at the Russian court), 'plenty of water' is assez d'eau; if said backwards, it sounds similar to that of the Greek colony's name (and water-related pun makes perfect sense, because Odessa, though situated next to the huge body of water, has limited fresh water supply). Anyhow, a link with the name of the ancient Greek colony persists, so there might be some truth in the oral tradition.

The new city quickly became a major success. Its early growth owed much to the work of the Duc de Richelieu, who served as the city's governor between 1803–1814. Having fled the French Revolution, he had served in Catherine's army against the Turks. He is credited with designing the city and organising its amenities and infrastructure, and is considered one of the founding fathers of Odessa, together with another Frenchman, Count Alexandre Langeron, who succeeded him in office. Richelieu is commemorated by a bronze statue, unveiled in 1828 to a design by Ivan Martos.

In 1819 the city was made a free port, a status it retained until 1859. It became home to an extremely diverse population of Russians, Ukrainians, Jews, Greeks, Bulgarians, Albanians, Italians, Frenchmen, Germans and traders representing many other European nationalities (hence numerous 'ethnic' names on the city's map, e.g., Frantsuszkiy (French) and Italianskiy (Italian) Boulevards, Grecheskaya (Greek), Evreyskaya (Jewish), Arnautskaya (Albanian) Streets). Its cosmopolitan nature was documented by the great Russian poet Alexander Pushkin, who lived in internal exile in Odessa between 1823–1824. In his letters he wrote that Odessa was a city where "you can smell Europe. French is spoken and there are European papers and magazines to read".

Odessa's growth was interrupted by the Crimean War of 1853–1856, during which it was bombarded by British and French naval forces. It soon recovered and the growth in trade made Odessa Russia's largest grain-exporting port. In 1866 the city was linked by rail with Kiev and Kharkov as well as Iaşi, Romania. Image:Odessa richelieu.jpg

The city became the home of a large Jewish community during the 19th century, and by 1897 Jews were estimated to comprise some 37% of the population. They were, however, repeatedly subjected to severe persecution. Pogroms were carried out in 1821, 1859, 1871, 1881, and 1905. Many Odessan Jews fled abroad, particularly to Palestine after 1882, and the city became an important base of support for Zionism.

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First Half of the 20th century

In 1905 Odessa was the site of a workers' uprising supported by the crew of the Russian battleship Potemkin (also see Battleship Potemkin uprising) and Lenin's Iskra. Sergei Eisenstein's famous motion picture The Battleship Potemkin commemorated the uprising and included a scene where hundreds of Odessan citizens were murdered on the great stone staircase (now popularly known as the "Potemkin Steps"), in one of the most famous scenes in motion picture history. At the top of the steps, which lead down to the port, stands a statue of Richelieu. The actual massacre took place in streets nearby, not on the steps themselves, but the movie caused many to visit Odessa to see the site of the "slaughter". The "Odessa Steps" continue to be a tourist attraction in Odessa. The film was made at Odessa's Cinema Factory, one of the oldest cinema studios in the former Soviet Union.

Image:Bolsheviks enter odessa.jpg Following the Bolshevik Revolution in 1917 during World War I, Odessa was occupied by several groups, including the Ukrainian Tsentral'na Rada, the French Army, the Red Army and the White Army. Finally, in 1920, the Red Army took control of Odessa and united it with the Ukrainian SSR, which later became part of the USSR.

The people of Odessa suffered from a great famine that occurred in 1921–1922 as a result of the war. During World War II Odessa was occupied by Romanian and German forces from 1941–1944. The city suffered severe damage and many casualties.

Under the Axis occupation, approximately 60,000 Odessans (mostly Jews) were either massacred or deported. Many parts of Odessa were damaged during its fall and later recapture in April 1944, when the city was finally liberated by the Soviet Army. It was one of the first four Soviet cities to be awarded the title of "Hero City" in 1945.

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Second Half of the 20th Century

Image:Odessa 1.jpg

During the 1960s and 1970s the city grew tremendously. Between the 1970s and 1990s, the majority of Odessa's Jews emigrated to Israel, United States and other Western countries. Domestic migration to Moscow and Leningrad also occurred on a large scale, forming large communities of Odessans there.

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In 1991, after the collapse of Communism, the city became part of newly independent Ukraine. Today Odessa is a city of around 1.1 million people. The city's industries include shipbuilding, oil refining, chemicals, metalworking and food processing. Odessa is also a Ukrainian naval base and home to a fishing fleet.

The transportation network of Odessa consists of trams (streetcars), trolleybuses, and buses; as well as marshrutkas.

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Geography and features

Odessa is situated (Google Map) on terraced hills overlooking a small harbor, approximately 31 km (19 mi.) north of the estuary of the Dniester river and some 443 km (275 mi) south of the Ukrainian capital Kiev. The city has a mild and dry climate with average temperatures in January of -2 °C (29 °F), and July of 22 °C (73 °F). It averages only 350 mm (14 in) of precipitation annually.

The primary language spoken is Russian, with Ukrainian being less common despite its being an official language in Ukraine. The city is a mix of many nationalities and ethnic groups, including Ukrainians, Russians, Jews, Greeks, Moldovans, Bulgarians, Armenians, Georgians, Turks, and Vietnamese, among others.

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Culture

Image:Odessa library.jpg

Odessa is a popular tourist destination, with many therapeutic resorts in and around the city.

The Tolstoy, Vorontsov, and Potocki families owned palaces in Odessa, which can still be visited.

The writer Isaac Babel was born in the city, which has also produced several famous musicians, including the violinists Nathan Milstein, Mischa Elman and David Oistrakh, and the pianists Benno Moiseiwitsch, Sviatoslav Richter and Emil Gilels. The chess player Efim Geller was born in the city. (All listed, except for Richter, are representatives of the city's Jewish community.)

The most popular Russian show-business people from Odessa are Mikhail Zhvanetsky (legendary humorist writer, who began his career as port engineer) and Roman Kartsev (comedian). Their success in 1970s contributed to Odessa's established status of a "capital of Soviet humour". Later several humour festivals were established in the city, including the celebration of the April Fool's Day.

See more people born in Odessa in Category:Natives of Odessa.

Most of the city's 19th century houses were built of limestone mined nearby. Abandoned mines were later used and broadened by local smugglers. This created a complicated labyrinth of underground tunnels beneath Odessa, known as "catacombs". They are a now a great attraction for extreme tourists. Such tours, however, are not officially sanctioned and are dangerous because the layout of the catacombs has not been fully mapped and the tunnels themselves are unsafe. These tunnels are a primary reason why subway was never built in Odessa.

Its sister city is Vancouver in Canada.

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Selected English Bibliography

Odessa: A History, 1794-1914 by Patricia Herlihy. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1987 (hardcover, ISBN 0916458156); 1991 (paperback reprint, ISBN 0916458431).
Odessa and the Problem of Urban Modernization by Frederick W. Skinner in The City in Late Imperial Russia (Indiana-Michigan Series in Russian and East European Studies). Bloomington, IN: Indiana University Press, 1986 (hardcover, ISBN 0253313708).
The Jews of Odessa: A Cultural History, 1794-1881 by Steven J. Zipperstein. Palo Alto: Stanford University Press, 1986 (hardcover, ISBN 0804712514); 1991 (paperback reprint, ISBN 0804719624).
How Things Were Done in Odessa: Cultural and Intellectual Pursuits in a Soviet City by Maurice Friedberg. Westview Press, 1991 (hardcover, ISBN 0813379873).
The Pogrom of 1905 in Odessa: A Case Study by Robert Weinberg in Pogroms : Anti-Jewish Violence in Modern Russian History. Cambridge University Press, 1992 (hardcover, ISBN 0521405327).
The Revolution of 1905 in Odessa: Blood on the Steps (Indiana-Michigan Series in Russian and East European Studies) by Robert Weinberg. Bloomington, IN: Indiana University Press, 1993 (hardcover, ISBN 0253363810).

Review by Patricia Herlihy in the Journal of Social History, Winter 1994.

New Voices of Russian Jewry: A Study of the Russian-Jewish Press of Odessa in the Era of the Great Reforms, 1860-1871 (Studies in Judaism in Modern Times, No. 4) by Alexander Orbach. Leiden: Brill Academic Publishers, 1997 (hardcover, ISBN 9004061754).
Odessa, 1941-1944: A Case Study of Soviet Territory Under Foreign Rule by Alexander Dallin. Iaşi-Oxford-Portland: Center for Romanian Studies, 1998 (hardcover, ISBN 9739839118). Available online
Commerce and Architecture in Odessa in Late Imperial Russia by Patricia Herlihy in Commerce in Russian Urban Culture 1861-1914, Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2002 (hardcover, ISBN 0801867509).
Port Jews of Odessa and Trieste: A Tale of Two Cities by Patricia Herlihy in Jahrbuch des Simon-Dubnow-Instituts II, München, 2003 (ISBN 342105522X).
Odessa Memories by Bel Kaufman (Contributor), Oleg Gubar (Contributor), Alexander Rozenboim (Contributor), Nicholas V. Iljine (Editor), Patricia Herlihy (Editor). Seattle: University of Washington Press, 2004 (hardcover, ISBN 0295983450).
A History of Odessa, the Last Italian Black Sea Colony by Anna Makolkin. Lewiston, NY: Edwin Mellen Press, 2004 (hardcover, ISBN 0773462724).
The Greeks of Odessa: Diaspora Leadership in Late Imperial Russia (East European Monographs) by John Athanasios Mazis. New York: Columbia University Press, 2004 (hardcover, ISBN 0880335459).
The Persuasive Power of the Odessa Myth by Patricia Herlihy and Oleg Gubar