Fancy rat
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The fancy rat or pet rat is a domesticated breed of the Brown Rat (Rattus norvegicus). The name "fancy rat" has nothing to do with the "fanciness" of their appearance but derives from the meaning of "to fancy". Thus, one who keeps pet rats is said to be involved in "rat fancy."
Pet rats live on average 2-3 years, though the oldest rat on record - a lab rat called Rodney - reached a purported age of 7 years and 4 months according to the 1995 Guinness Book of Records. Bucks (male rats) reach an average weight of 500g while female rats can reach up to 300g.
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Origins
The origin of the fancy rat is probably the rat-catchers of the late 19th century who trapped rats and were paid by town governments per rat, and who also kept certain rats for exhibition/gambling fights. They began breeding rats (possibly to collect more money from the towns, or because it was easier than catching new ones all the time), and became attached to some as they discovered how intelligent and trainable rats can be. One of the most famous of these rat catchers was Jack Black, ratcatcher to Queen Victoria, who became known for breeding and selling pet rats around 1840-1860. Rats became more and more domesticated and people enjoyed them since they are easily bred, social and intelligent pets. The first rat show was held in 1901 in England. Beatrix Potter, author of the "Peter Rabbit" series of children's books, had a white pet rat of which she was very fond. Ratkeeping grew in popularity in the 1970s, leading to the formation of the British National Fancy Rat Society in 1976.
Varieties
As in other pet species, a variety of colors, coat types, and other features that do not appear in the wild have arisen in pet rats and have been perpetuated through selective breeding. Some pet rats retain the "agouti" (two tones on the same hair) coloring of the wild brown rat, but other colors available now include blue, chocolate, silver, black, white, pearl, fawn/champagne/beige, and mink/cinnamon. In addition to solid colors and the "berkshire" pattern (colored top, white under), there are many different markings, including one similar to Siamese cats (with seal or blue points), merle spotting, dalmatian-like spotting, blazes, hoods (darker color on the head, shoulders and spine, generally a white body), caps (dark only on the head), and masks (only around the eyes), and "downunders", an Australian variety that has rapidly gained favour in Europe, which have markings on the belly that correspond to those on top. Rex coats are curlier (the whiskers are also curled), and satin coats are extra soft and shiny; several different genetic traits can produce hairless (or partly hairless) rats. "Dumbo" rats, which emerged as a new variety in the US and have now attained "Guide Variety" status in the UK, have ears which are larger and lower on the sides of the head than normal "top"-eared rats, and genetically tailless rats are called "Manx" just like tailless cats from the Isle of Man (Manx rats come in the same stumpy, rumpy, and rumpy-riser varieties as Manx cats). Ironically on the Isle of Man the word rat is considered a swearword and can be very offensive to some people. (See Longtail.)
There is controversy amongst rat fanciers if breeding hairless or tailless rats is ethically right. The tail is vital for rats' balance and for adjusting body temperature. Tailless rats have greater risk of heat exhaustion and falling too high. Similarly, hairless rats are missing their warmth-preserving coating and are more likely to be adversely affected by the cold.
Keeping rats as pets
Rats make excellent pets for urbanites with small apartments, as they bond with humans and offer much in the way of affection and entertaining activity, but require little space indoors (and don't need to be taken outside at all). Though they do urinate occasionally when allowed to wander outside the cage, especially males who have a tendency to "scent mark" by leaving tiny drops of urine. They do have a tendency to gnaw, but this can be mitigated with chew toys. They are less costly to feed than cats or dogs (a basic rat chow can be supplemented with many leftovers from the human table, as they are omnivores; however, see the Food section, below). Their veterinary care, however, is just as expensive.
Although rats are generally nocturnal, many pet rat owners have found their fancy rats to be crepuscular instead: most active for a few hours around dawn and dusk, napping for a few hours at a stretch between these times.
Solo rats
Rats are extremely social animals, best kept in same-sex pairings or groups. Although not a requirement, same-sex pairings or groups prevent undesired reproduction. Whereas some of the rarer rat care guides suggest that rats can be kept solitary if given plenty of attention from their human owners, no amount of human attention can replace social interaction with other rats. Rats need peer stimulation to express natural, healthy behavior patterns. Nearly all solitary rats become depressed, nervous and develop behavioral defects over time. It is an exceptional rat that is not happier with at least one other rat for good company or when soundly embedded in a group.
Some people believe that a rat kept in solitary will be more devoted to its human owners than rat who have companions. Behavorial research disproves this assumption conclusively and major fancy rat organisations are as well of the opinion that it is cruel to keep a solo rat [1].
Housing
Rats can be kept both in cages and in terrariums, both of which are available in pet stores. However, cages with thin bars (thick wire) are strongly preferred, as rats need to climb for proper exercise and mental stimulation. Rats enjoy climbing the cage walls (the cage should have horizontal and vertical bars) and use their noses to sample the scents of the outside world since scent is very important to rats.
Rats kept in glass terrariums cannot climb, become lethargic and sometimes shown signs of psychological distress; also, the lack of air renewal makes rats more likely to get pulmonary problems.
Housing with solid flooring may be preferable as incomplete evidence suggests that wire flooring can exascerbate a foot infection known as "bumblefoot." (Merck Veterinary Manual online, 2003) Solid flooring may also be easier to clean, a factor crucial to maintaining optimum respiratory and overall health.[2]. Rats must be kept in enclosures that they cannot chew through, so wood and/or plastic cages are not appropriate.
Regular cleaning of a rat's home is crucial for the pet's health. The home must be cleaned at least once a week by replacing the soiled bedding where necessary. Another important component is a hiding place, where the animal can rest during the day. Not all commercially available houses are adequate. The hiding houses should be of sufficient size and be closed on at least three sides. The same building materials are appropriate for these as for the larger cages, although even a small cardboard box will work (however, such will have to be regularly replaced). Some houses add features such as a removable roof that helps take away collected food (especially perishable items).
Size
Despite a rat's modest size, appropriate housings should always have a floor space of at least 24 by 12 inches (about 60×30cm), and at least 24 inches (60cm) in height. If affordable, larger cages with multiple levels are preferable. A bigger, more interesting home will lengthen the rat's lifespan and provide both the rat and the owner with more entertainment. A guideline of at least 2 cubic feet per rat is recommended as a minimum.
Position
The perfect place for the rat's home is a well-lit room of constant, moderate temperature (18 to 26°C, 64 to 80°F). Do not place the cage in direct sunlight which could cause dangerous overheating. When wire cages are used, it is especially important to avoid air drafts. Though they cannot see very far, rats become more relaxed and curious when positioned somewhat above the ground (at least 65 cm (2 feet)), from where they can perceive their surroundings.
Litter
Various types of litter can be used to cover the base of the cage; most rat societies advocate the use of a good recycled paper or cardboard based litter, aspen shavings, cornhusk, hemp or shredded paper. Softwood shavings like pine and cedar should be avoided, as the phenols given off by this type of wood can cause serious respiratory and/or liver damage in rats.
Rats can be litter trained, which can improve the cleanliness of their homes. If the rats' droppings are placed in a tray regularly, eventually the rat should realise what the litter tray is for. Persuading rats to urinate in one place is much more difficult.
Toys
Like all rodents, their teeth grow continuously. Rats with healthy, properly aligned teeth will grind them together and maintain a proper length even if they are never allowed to chew on anything. The notion that a healthy rat's teeth (versus those born or otherwise affected with misaligned teeth) will grow out of control without hard items to chew on is an old wives' tale. However, chewing is both entertaining and psychologically soothing for them, and in the absence of appropriate chew toys they might start chewing on inappropriate items (like furniture).
Some cheap and effective chew toys for rats are: branches or pieces of non-toxic organic wood (maple, oak, apple...), flavored nylon chew toys for dogs, and chicken or steak bones. Unlike with dogs or cats, a rat won't choke on bones because they slowly wear away the bone by gnawing on it. A dog or cat may try to crush the bone with their teeth, which causes the dangerous splintering.
Exercise and entertainment
Like all pets, rats need exercise and entertainment to maintain their physical and mental health. An exercise wheel allows rats to run full speed whenever they wish, although some rats show no interest in them. Open metal wheels with a slotted floor are very dangerous to their tails and legs. If a tail or leg gets caught between the bars it can easily be broken. Several companies now make solid floored plastic wheels that are tail/leg safe and strong enough to accommodate a rat’s weight.
A great exercise for rats is climbing, and they prefer a more vertical cage to horizontal. Using bird perches or ladders gives them a way to run up and down their cage all day long. Also, they can expend a great amount of energy on construction projects, so giving them materials to chew, drag around, or build with will keep their minds and bodies busy. Great ideas are scraps of fabrics, cotton balls, popsicle sticks and cereal boxes. Rats love to recycle so there is no need to spend money at the pet store.
If they are handled frequently, rats enjoy being out of their enclosures and having the opportunity to explore. However, they must be kept away from holes in the wall or in large pieces of furniture, because they sometimes seek out the dark and burrow-like confines of those areas and it can be difficult to get them to come out again. It is best to rat proof one room, such as the bathroom (close the toilet lid and remove all chemicals) and then you can let them run free while you are doing something else. Fifteen minutes a day is usually plenty. More than exercise, rats love social interaction. They are really more brainiacs than athletes, so they like new stimulation. Give them plenty of cage mates, and try to hold them for at least a few minutes each day. You can put them on your shoulder while you are doing dishes. Keep in mind that they can be scared of new situation and especially loud noises, so avoid taking them outside or into laundry rooms or other loud places, unless you let them get used to it first.
Training any animal takes a great investment of time and energy. All rats have the ability to learn to recognize their name and come when called. This is especially helpful if your pet is ever lost in the house. It is relatively easy to train a rat to use a litter tray or pan, and some people have even housebroken their pet rats and let them run free in a rat-proofed room. The full extent of a rat's ability to be trained through patience and the use of treats as rewards can be seen in the popularity of rat agility classes at many rat shows.
Food and drink
Rats drink a great deal and so should also always have fresh water available. Appropriate drinking devices such as gravity drip-feed bottles can be found in stores. Both water and vegetables must be fresh and have to be exchanged frequently, usually once a day however, you should buy a water bottle that can last your rats for a few days, in case you forget or they are particularly thirsty. It is usually advised that water not be given in open jars, since it is likely to get polluted, or spilled.
Pet stores can provide basic food for rats that provides their nutritional needs, but they also enjoy (and benefit from) fresh vegetables and fruits, and small amounts of cooked chicken or beef (cooled to a safe temperature, without spices or sauces).
The diet should optimally not comprise of more than 20% animal protein. Studies have shown that high protein intake shortens their lifespan and increases the likelihood of kidney trouble. A belief is that some rats may develop "protein sores" at levels over 25%, however this correlation is not scientifically proven. It is also possible that a large consumption of certain types of proteins, such as in seeds or dairy, can induce allergic reactions in certain rats. Rats love to eat frozen peas and small amounts of sweet corn on the cob.
Not all foods are suitable for rats. Pet foods made for hamsters, mice or other rodents are not suitable, though rabbit food can be used as a base for a home mixed diet. Certain foods like raw beans and sweets/candies are not recommended. Many household plants, like tomato leaves, are poisonous and therefore dangerous to a rat's health, especially since rats cannot vomit and are therefore unable to regurgitate any poisonous matter. As with most other animals, rats are often unable to determine which foods are bad for them and will usually eat anything that is offered. Unlike dogs (and other domestic animals) to whom the Theobromine contained in chocolate can be a deadly toxine, chocolate is currently assumed to be largely non-toxic to rats. If at all however it should only be fed in very small quantities because it is very high in food energy such as in fats and sugar. Another common human food under current investigation are grapes and raisins which according to cases reported to the ASPCA Antox database program have in larger quantities been linked to lethal renal (kidney) failure in dogs.
Solid food components can be divided into three categories: dry, fresh, and animal food. Dry food usually makes up the main part in this listing. Many pet stores now stock commercial rat mixes and lab blocks specifically designed to cater to the dietary needs of rats, as most ordinary rodent mixes usually contain too high a level of fatty seeds and not enough protein. Most other kinds of seeds, kernels, and nuts can be given. Care should be taken to limit the amount of fat contained within the diet. Especially sunflower seeds, nuts, almonds, and sesame are most nutritive and are to be considered as a treat rather than as basic food. It is becoming common practice among many ratbreeders to make up their own mixes which often contain a balanced blend of cereals, whole grains, and puppy biscuits amongst other ingredients; dried corn should be avoided because it may contain fungus and will create carcinogenic nitrosamines in the stomach.
Rat foods come in two basic types, mixes or muelies, and blocks or nuggets. When feeding mixes, it is important not to refill to bowl until all the food has been eaten to prevent the rat from just "picking out the best bits". Blocks or nuggests circumvent this problem, as the rat cannot be picky about what he eats, and it is fun for them to nibble on. However, rats can get bored with food, just like humans, and a diet of blocks or nuggets may not provide enough variety.
It is also important to figure out how much your rat likes to eat in a day, as they are quite sneaky with their food. "Stashing" or hiding food for later is natural behaviour for rats, so care should be taken that not only is the food bowl empty, but their secret stashes are too. This is not so much of a problem if you are feeding blocks or nuggets.
Mixing your own food
For optimum health, it is recommended that rats are fed a homemade mix. This can be varied to provide interest for the rats and to incorporate health needs of young, old or sick rats.
The mixes are made from a base of roughly 50% rabbit or rat food with added dog biscuits, dried pasta and human breakfast cereals. Fresh foods such as raw or cooked vegetables should be added daily so as to comprise roughtly 20% of the diet.
To find the appropriate foods and the correct quantites of each, visit [3] or [4] in the USA and [5] for a mix based on foods available in the UK.
Treats
Favourite treats include yogurt, or yogurt drops, sunflower seeds and chocolate chips, though these should be given sparingly as they are all high in fat.
For a healthier alternative, rats often enjoy peas (frozen or cooked) and sweetcorn as much as fattier treats.
Common health issues
Respiratory Problems
Rats are prone to upper respiratory problems. These problems are many times connected with the mycoplasma bacterium, which makes the rat more prone to other bacterial infections. A rat may start sneezing and a red, blood-like substance named porphyrin can many times be seen from his eyes and nose. This is normal for a rat with respiratory problems and is considered one of the first signs something is wrong. Echinacea solution mixed with their drinking water will many times provide the necessary boost to their defense and keep a more serious problem away. Many rats will love an Echinacea tincture as a sweet treat right from the bottle, or sprinkled on their food. It is good to use it every month or so, as they do not require a high dose. If the rat begins a rattling noise from their lungs, loses appetite, assumes an arched back position or seems lethargic, it is necessary to take the rat as soon as possible to a veterinarian for aggressive antibiotic treatment.
While it is quite common for rats to have respiratory infections, they are quite difficult to treat when the rat starts showing life-threatening symptoms. Many rats will live out their lives with a continuous sneeze or wheeze, and have little difficulty with their breathing problems. Fancy breeds that come out of well-cared for stock show less symptoms than rats who are not results of responsible breeding. Some rats will succumb to the disease at the age of 1.5 or 2 years. Usually the wheezing will become louder, they will become lethargic, but the most noticeable symptom will be rapid weight loss. At this point, most people consult a vet, and get some antibiotics, but by the time they realize it is not working, the rat is usually dead (one to two weeks). For the antibiotics to work, they must be used as soon as the wheezing and sneezing starts, and their whole cage must be treated (all rats that they will come into contact). If you want to keep your rat for a long time, it may be advisable to start antibiotics as soon as the rat is matured and exhibiting mild symptoms, however it may be difficult to convince your veterinarian to do so, unless he or she is quite familiar with rats.
If veterinary care is not accessible or not working, palliative care may be advised, as most symptoms do not set in until a late age and rats have a short life span as is. Many vets are also not well informed or well practiced in rat care, so you may need to supplement the vet care yourself. This involves treating the symptoms as they occur. If the rat is wheezing heavily, certain OTC decongestants can be fed to them in extremely small doses, provided they are indicated for only chest congestion, not nasal congestion. Also, sniffs from asthma inhalers will benefit your rat, and they cannot overdose as they will only take in the amount of medication they can breath in. This will provide relief for a day or two.
The most distressing symptom is weight loss, and any weight loss due to any condition is easily helped. First, you have to find out if the rat is eating his regular food. If he takes food from your hand, he may be losing weight because his companions are hoarding food, and he does not have the energy to go out and seek food. If this is the case, feed your rat by hand, and do not let the other rats near until he is finished. If the rat will not take food, he may be having trouble digesting solid foods, and usually will respond to liquids given the chance, as he may be dehydrated as well. Great options are soy milk, yogurt, ice cream, cream cheese or pudding. The rat needs calories to fight of the disease, so feed him anything he will eat. If he will not eat willingly, and is not drinking, he may benefit from being fed by an eyedropper. This is a great idea if he is taking medication as you can mix the medication with an electrolyte drink, and use the eye dropper to put it in his mouth. However, you have to be careful that the rat is not struggling, as he may take liquid down his lungs, making his pneumonia worse. Feed him one drop at a time, several times a day.
Finally, your rat may lose coordination or suffer from some dementia due to the lack of oxygen or lack of food. He may need to be isolated so that he does not fall off ledges in his cage, or due to the weight loss, make be able to squeeze through the cage wires or doors, and fall off tables. Wandering around outside the cage does not help his weight loss either. The rat will have a little energy, but will not run around the whole house, so it may be easier to set him up on a couch or comfy box so you can watch him, feed him, and love him. If the rat can eat enough, and the antibiotics work, the rat will soon start to gain weight or energy, and if weight gain continues, he will regain full function. However, his heart is quite delicate due to the stress of the disease, so he may just pass away. If the wheezing is preventing him from taking full breaths, and the rat seems to be suffering, and not getting better, it may be time to take him to be put down. However, rats may continue to be delightful companions for months after the full on-set of the mycoplasma, so it is best not to rush to any decision.
Tumors and Absesses
Rats frequently show lumps on their bodies, which can be caused by a tumor or an abscess. Either way, it is recommended that the rat be taken to the veterinarian for treatment. Tumors are seen most frequently on females, since their mammary tissue is spread through most of their underbelly. Most tumors start out as benign tumors and after removal the rat can live normally. Abscesses will need to be drained of the infection and an antibiotic may be prescribed. However, surgery can be dangerous unless your vet is experienced with small rodents. Many rats will live normally with tumors or abscesses provided they do not interfere with the rat's ability to find food and water. Food may be provided, but if the lump has slowed the rat down, she may not be able to fight for her share with her cage mates, so may need to be fed individually. Remove all ladders and perches if the rat has trouble climbing, so that she is not excluded by her cage mates. If the lump is continually growing, or growing on a spot that is affecting breathing or eating, it must be removed immediately. Smaller lumps are also safer to remove than larger ones, but the lumps can grow quite quickly, so they are difficult to catch. It is good to examine the rat for lumps whenever you are playing with her so you can catch things early.
Bumblefoot
Bumblefoot (ulcerative pododermatitis) is a bacterial infection of the foot that may be associated with wire-floor cages, genetic factors, and/or an unsanitary living environment [6], although no conclusive evidence yet exists that would directly link this infection to these factors. Bumblefoot is so named because of the characteristic "bumbles" or lesions as well as swelling of the foot pad symptomatic of an infection. Topical antiseptics such as Blue-Kote in addition to oral or injected antibiotics may be used to combat the infection, which if left untreated may be fatal.[7][8]
Old Age Complications
Senior rats develop a variety of illnesses. Senior animals develop arthritis, strokes, and neurological disorders. Some rats are subject to hip dysplasia. A senior rat may live months or even years past the onset of its first illnesses depending on the type and severity of the illness. Weight loss is not uncommon in older rats, although severe or rapid weight loss may be a sign of a more serious underlying medical condition, in which case vet consultation is necessary. Older rats can seem to waste, and their rib bones seem to poke through, however they are usually quite healthy, as long as they are eating well. A healthy happy rat will anxiously look for food, and disinterest in food or water is a very distressing sign of illness.
Lice and Mites
Parasitic pests such as rodent ]]lice]] can live in wood pulp and paper pulp. It is commonly stated that poor cleaning, or bad care is the cause for lice in rats and mice, but actually dormant eggs can even exist in store-bought bedding. Exposing these materials to microwave raditiation in common a household microwave oven is considered to sufficiently sterilize such materials. If a parasite population in the rat cage is detected or otherweise suspected, total decontamination can only be achieved if the rats themselves are treated with anti-parasitical formulations and their cages are decontaminated simultaneously.
Lice may be white or red, possibly moving specks as well as nits attached to fur. Signs of an infestation of mites, which are microscopic organisms, may include a "fine bran like substance" (Rat Guide, 2005) present on the fur or skin of the animal, crusted skin lesions and/or a red bumpy rash visible on exposed skin. Common parasites seen on pet rats include the rat louse, Polyplax spinulosa; fur mite, Radfordia ensifera; tropical rat mite, Ornithonyssus bacoti; and the spiny rat mite, Laelaps echidninus. A skin scraping may be performed by a veterinarian to determine the presence of microscopic parasites, but this method of diagnosis may be painful to the animal and may produce a false negative result. If mites or lice are suspected, the rat can be treated with ivermectin, available through the veterinarian. Inexperienced pet owners not familiar with the correct dosage of this product are strongly advised to consult a veterinarian. Doses are typically given weekly for four to six weeks, or until all signs of lice and mites are gone. An antibiotic may be warranted to prevent infection if skin lesions are present.
Often mistaken for mites are normal marks from active rat family fights. Rats are social and have a hierarchy and enjoy a good brawl now and again. They may incur small scratches from fighting, and may exacerbate those wounds due to itchiness. This is most common in "teenage" rats, from six months to a year old, as they are getting their testosterone. Rat boxing is normal, and any wounds or itching may be treated with a child formula of polysporin applied to actively bleeding wounds. It is believed feeding rats a dog or cat food containing omega oils will make their skin less itchy and sensitive. It is also believed to improve their fur. Cuts that become infected can lead to more serious abscesses.
Fighting Injuries
Fighting is cause for concern only if the rat is receiving wounds that are large or deep. This can mean that you may have an anti-social rat in the bunch, who may need to be separated and housed alone. Most rats will fight for a few seconds, get bored and go do something else. If there is a rat fight that lasts more than a few seconds, or leads to a rolling type of grip and prolonged screeching, separate the rats, and reintroduce them with caution. If a rat really will not get along with the others, see if he likes living alone. He may need to be neutered. Spayed and neutered rats will live longer and be less aggressive to each other, although this may be expensive if you have a large rat family. If a rat receives a cut that seems deep, or long, or seems like it will not heal on its own, you can take the rat to the vet for staples. These will push the skin together so that it can heal, and the vet will usually prescribe antibiotics to guard against infection. Rats love to fight each other, and are not bothered by cuts and scrapes, as they are tough little creatures, so your main worry should be stopping infection, as long as they are only play fighting. Rats are quite tough and do not seemed to be bothered by illnesses, falling off high places, bumping their heads or any other accidents that they are prone to. Image:Gush.jpg
Domestic rats in film, television, theater and literature
Since Muybridge's first films, rats have been widely used in entertainment media. Due to their intelligent nature and trainability, rats have appeared in over 413 major film releases throughout the world, and in at least seventy-one television series. For example, Scabbers is a rat-animal friend in the Harry Potter book/film series.
Rats in films are often depicted as squeaking critters, usually for dramatic effect. However, rats do not squeak unless highly distressed.
The movie Willard features an alpha rat named Big Ben and a smart rat named Socrates. In the movie Big Ben gets jealous of all the attention Socrates is getting, and tries to murder him out of revenge. Rats do seem to have these personalities. The alpha is usually full of brawn, and will have a second who seems quite smart, running the show from behind the scenes. Care must be taken when an alpha dies or leaves, as there will be a bit of chaos in the ranks until a new alpha is chosen. Losing any member of the cage does seem to have an effect on rats, as they like to pair up into sub-groups sometimes. When a pal dies, a rat may need extra attention from its owner until he finds a new friend.