Toga

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This article is about the toga, a Roman garment. For the Japanese village see Toga, Toyama.

The toga was a distinctive garment of Ancient Rome. It consisted of a long sash of cloth, on the order of perhaps twenty feet (6 m) in length. This sash was wrapped around the body in a particular way, and was generally worn over a tunic. The toga was invariably made of wool, even if the tunic it was worn over was often made of linen. For most of Rome's history, the toga was a garment worn exclusively by men, while women wore the stola. Non-citizens were forbidden from wearing a toga.

1 History
2 Significance
3 Varieties
4 See also
5 External links

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History

The earliest costume of the Roman was a thick woollen cloak worn over a loin-cloth or apron. This woollen cloak was called the toga, and was the dress of women as well as men and boys. It was taken off indoors, or when hard at work in the fields, but it was the only decent attire out-of-doors. (We learn this from the story of Cincinnatus: he was ploughing in his field when the messengers of the Senate came to tell him that he had been made dictator, and on seeing them he sent his wife to fetch his toga from the house so that they could be received appropriately (Livy iii. 26, 9). The truth of the story may be doubtful, but it nevertheless expresses the Roman sentiment on the subject.)

As time went on, and the Romans became more civilised, their garments changed. They adopted the shirt (tunica, or in Greek chiton) which the Greeks and Etruscans wore, made their toga more bulky, and wore it in a looser manner. The result was that it became useless for active pursuits, such as those of war. Thus, its place was taken by the more handy sagum (woolen cloak) on all military occasions. In times of peace, too, the toga was eventually superseded by the laena, lacerna, paenula, and other forms of buttoned or closed cloaks.

However, the toga did remain the court dress of the Empire (Spart. Sever. 1, 7). It was in it that the clients paid their visit to their patron, not forgetting to wear boots (calceus) with it (Juv. i. 119; cf. Tertull. de Pallio, Mart. i. 103, 5, 6; Hor. Sat. i. 3, 31-2). It was also worn by the spectators in the Circus at Rome (Suet. Aug. 40; Dio Cass. lxxii. 21), and its irksomeness causes Juvenal to sigh for the freedom of the country, where only the dead man, who was buried in it, is bound to wear it (Sat. iii. 172; cf. Mart. ix. 58, 8). Martial is equally enthusiastic in his praises of the unconventionality of the provinces (i. 49, 31; iv. 66, 1-3; x. 47, 5; xii. 18, 5, 17); and Pliny the Younger makes it one of the attractions of his Tuscan villa that there is no necessity of wearing the toga (Ep. v. 6, § 45; cf. vii. 3, § 2). In spite, however, of these protests, its use as an official garment lingered on until the time of Theodosian (Cod. Theod. xiv. 10, 1), when it was supplanted by the paenula.

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Significance

The same process that removed the toga from every-day life gave it an increased importance as a ceremonial garment, as is often the case with clothing. As early as the third century B.C., and probably even before, the toga (along with the calceus) was looked upon as the characteristic badge of Roman citizenship. It was denied to foreigners (Suetonius Claud. 15), and even to banished Romans (Pliny Ep. iv. 11, 3), and it was worn by magistrates on all occasions as a badge of office. In fact, for a magistrate to appear in a Greek cloak (pallium) and sandals was considered by all, except unconventional folk, as highly improper, if not criminal (cf. Cicero pro Rab. 9, 26). Augustus, for instance, was so much incensed at seeing a meeting of citizens without the toga, that, quoting Virgil's proud lines, "Romanos, rerum dominos, gentemque togatam" (Romans, lords of the world, the race that wears the toga.), he gave orders to the aediles that in future no one was to appear in the Forum or Circus without it (Suetonius Aug. 40).

Because the toga was not worn by soldiers, it was regarded as a sign of peace. A civilian was sometimes called togatus, "toga-wearer", in contrast to sagum-wearing soldiers. Cicero's De Officiis contains the phrase cedant arma togæ: literally, "let arms yield to the gown", meaning "may peace replace war," or "may military power yield to civilian power." This phrase became the motto of the U.S. state of Wyoming.

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Varieties

There were many kinds of toga, each used differently.

Toga virilis (or toga alba or toga pura): A plain white toga worn on formal occasions by most Roman men of legal age, generally about fourteen to sixteen years and older. (cf. Mart. viii. 28, 11)
Toga candida: "Bright toga"; a toga bleached to a dazzling white by chalk (Isidorus Orig. xix. 24, 6), worn by candidates for public office (cf. Polybius, x. 4, 8). Thus Persius speaks of a cretata ambitio, "chalked ambition". Oddly, this custom appears to have been banned by plebiscite in 432 BC, but the restriction was never enforced (Liv. iv. 25, 13). The term is the source of the English word candidate.
Toga praetexta: An ordinary white toga with a broad purple stripe on its border. It was worn by:
- Freeborn boys who had not yet come of age (Liv. xxiv. 7, 2).
- All curule magistrates (cf. Cic. post red. in Sen. 5, 12; Zonar. vii. 19).
- Ex-curule magistrates and -dictators, upon burial (Liv. xxxiv. 7, 2) and apparently at festivals and other celebrations as well (cf. Cic. Phil. ii. 4. 3, 110).
- Some priests (e.g., the Flamen Dialis, Pontifices, Tresviri Epulones, the augurs, and the Arval brothers; Liv. xxvii. 8, 8; xxxiii. 42).
- During the Empire, the right to wear it was sometimes bestowed as an honor independent of formal rank.
- According to tradition, the Kings of Rome.

Those with the right to wear a toga praetexta were sometimes termed laticlavius, "having a broad crimson stripe".

Image:Contemporary portrayal of a toga picta.jpg

Toga pulla: Literally just "dark toga". It was worn mainly by mourners, but could also be worn in times of private danger or public anxiety. It was sometimes used as a protest of sorts—when Cicero was exiled, the Senate resolved to wear togae pullae as a demonstration against the decision (post red. in Sen. 5, 12). Magistrates with the right to wear a toga praetexta wore a simple toga pura instead of pulla.
Toga picta: This toga, unlike all others, was not just dyed but embroidered and decorated. It was solid purple, embroidered with gold. Under the Republic, it was worn by generals in their triumphs, and by the Praetor Urbanus when he rode in the chariot of the Gods into the circus at the Ludi Apollinares (cf. Liv. v. 41, 2). During the Empire, the toga picta was worn by magistrates giving public gladiatorial games and by the consuls, as well as by the emperor on special occasions.
Toga trabea: According to Servius, there were three different kinds of trabea: one of purple only, for the gods; another of purple and a little white, for kings; and a third, with scarlet stripes and a purple hem (cf. Isid. Orig. xix. 24, 8), for augurs and Salii (ad Aen. vii. 612; cf. ad vii. 188). Dionysius says that those of equestrian class wore it as well, but this is not borne out by other evidence.